9/5/83. Got a nice early start (8:45). Slight headwind but made good time. New snow on peaks. Turned off highway at Fort Steele to another great secondary road. No traffic. Toward the end was a river (Kootenay River?) with osprey. Got back on the busy highway. Tailwind got me to Elko real quick. Had to decide whether to turn south on 93 (skip Missoula and start east, but with a nasty side wind) or straight on 3 (tailwind). Sat at an ice cream stand at the intersection for about a half hour before deciding to go the extra miles and enjoy the wind. Went the 26 miles to Fernie Mountain Provincial Park. Was tired and cold. Short, monstrous uphill to campground ($4). Cedar, wet type of undergrowth including much "snowberry" that looks like it's related to Blueberry and Huckleberry, but has poisonous white berries. Ran out of fuel half way through cooking mac and cheese. Asked some campers, who referred me to other campers - an older couple who, it turns out, were interested in tree identification. They couldn't decide if nearby trees were birch or aspen. Although there was birch around, they were looking at aspen. Filled up my fuel bottle (they refused payment). The first campers I asked came by to invite me over for coffee. His name was John; I don't remember hers. He had a heavy New York accent but lived in Montana. They had visited Alaska and enjoyed talking about it. Gave me wine and cookies by a HUGE fire (it was chilly, as I said).
9/6/83, written 9/10. Ice in water bottles. Dew on tent was frozen. Packed up early but waited for the sun to get some pictures of plants. Took some close ups of a yellow and green thimbleberry leaf. Pleasant riding, then OUTSTANDING. Very strong tailwind. It felt like I was on a silent motorcycle. Buzzed across the dry prairie region. Then had to turn right onto #6 at Pincher. Very strong side to head wind. Couldn't handle it. Camped about 10-1/2 mile down the road at Pincher Creek at a FREE campground. Large poplars along Pincher Creek.
9/7/83, written 9/10. Got up very early to beat the wind. On road by 7:30. At 8:30 the merciless wind started. A lady in a van gave me a 2 mile ride to the intersection leading to Waterton Lake (I was going to the border - missing most of the Park). Long, hard uphill, then downs and ups. A fat customs officer checked my ID and asked a few questions (was I carrying citrus???). Went for groceries in St. Marys. Nothing but expensive junk. Got donuts for breakfast and biked about 7 miles into Glacier Park to Rising Sun Campground. Nice, but $6.00!
9/8/83, written 9/10. Overcast and moist when I got up. Packed up and headed uphill toward Logan Pass. Occasional rain. Wondered if I should've stayed and waited for a nice day, but proceeded. I got to the top to the visitors' center. The climb was long, not very steep, without a shoulder or, luckily, traffic. Met Rob Burns, a biker. Started down in the clouds and rain. Visibility poor. My wet brakes didn't work well and my rear tire slid on some metal grating. I was scared so I took it really slow going down, stopping at all turn-offs. Although I had my entire wardrobe on, I was very cold. Met Rob again at the bottom and left the park. Had lunch under birch trees in front of a gas station in West Glacier. Proceeded down Highway 2. Very dangerous. No shoulder, pot holes, etc. Heavy truck traffic. We got groceries in Columbia Falls. Rob stayed there at a boat launching site even though a sign said no camping. I went on. I took Highway 2 (now wide with a shoulder) toward Kalispell -- a variation from the Bikecentennial map. Camped at a very nice campground off the highway one mile. Surrounded by motorcyclers. $4.50. Got in, set up, then ate in the dark.
8/9/83, written 9/10. Early start. Talked with some motorcyclers, showered (ahhhh) and left. Got eyeglass rearview mirror from Bicology in Kalispell. Got on very nice back roads per Bikecentennial map. Rain all around but where I was. Saw marsh hawk chasing a sparrow on North Somers Road. Osprey nest along Highway 82 perched on a power pole. Ate at a Dairy Queen at Bigfork. Met Rob - he was going to a bakery. I went on. Nice, untraveled roads. Saw a coyote. Camped at an almost vacant Forest Service campground. Black red-squirrels. About a 100 mile day.
9/10/83. Woke up cold and early. Left and just about froze. Heavy fog, but sunshine in Seeley Lake. Took off a layer of clothes. Was making good time. Mostly downhill into Missoula. Washed clothes and got a haircut at a barber college (good job). Checked into Birchwood Hostel. Post office was closed until Monday.
9/11/83. Went to the university. They're on the quarter system so weren't in session but someone directed me to the library. Closed on Sundays. I took shelter from the rain. Ate some sandwiches and looked at my map. Ran into the same person as before, who now directed me to the public library. Closed. Took shelter from the rain at Toco John's. Walked down Broadway and eventually found my way back to the hostel. CLOSED! Walked the other direction (down Stevens Street). Was looking for a mall or somewhere to get out of the rain where I could sit down and write in my journal. Finally retreated to the Gay Ninety's Tavern. It was crowded but everyone soon left on a bus to another tavern to return later -- the place has a group of regulars. Just two or three of us remained. Conversations started, then two women (not ladies) who had been working hard starting a fresh seafood store came in. Very funny, outspoken, and vulgar. Exchanged poor jokes with an older fat man. Entertaining. Met Don, who does construction work and travels and highly recommended I pass through Steamboat Springs, CO, and gave me a name to check out there. Also met Scott, a forestry research technician who had been in the Peace Corps and is now returning to school to get his masters. Also an older man who is in the sapphire trade and also sells fire place accessories. Times were not too good in his trade now. Wants to sell his land and travel, continuing with sapphires on a more relaxed scale. I spent about 6 hours at the bar. Many drinks were bought for me. I left before the bus returned, although I'm sure that would've been fun. Went to the hostel. Rob Burns was there (I really don't like him). He did a good job reading some Robert Service.
